Grey skies in Shark Bay
After a resupply and washing run, we are ready to sail out of Denham back across to the shores of Dirk Hartog Island. There are a few days of north west and westerly winds forecast, so the eastern shores of Dirk Hartog will provide protected anchorages and an opportunity to explore some more.
With a light north easterly blowing, we make good ground east from Denham, passing cruising buddies Afterglow II and Tigress as they head the opposite direction into Denham. Halfway through the sail the wind starts to die off and soon there is no wind at all… which means engines on as we head towards our planned anchorage at Tetradon Loop. In the distance we see Nic and Julia on Blue Yonder heading for the same location and like us they are struggling to find suitable wind.
Within a few hours we are at anchor just off the shore at the top of Tetradon Loop, with a view north to the headland at Quoin Head South. The sun has left us now and whilst not threatening rain, it is all grey skies streaming down from the north. More importantly there is a birthday on Blue Yonder - Molly turning 1 and so we rv on the beach for birthday cake and a little pressie that we picked up from the surf shop in Denham. After a rousing birthday song it is cake all round before the local mozzie population decides they want to play too and we retreat back to the boat.
The next few days are interspersed with rain showers and northerly winds, but we are still able to get out and explore with some great walks, including traversing the Quoin Head South headland. Plenty of interesting wildlife on Dirk Hartog and a lot of science is happening which is evidenced by a range of small animal traps and solar powered movement recording stations. We also saw a couple of reseachers with a tracking device. Unfortunately, we were on Singularity and didn’t have a chance to get to shore and chat about the program.
Over the next few days we see a lot of wildlife, including a large pod of dugongs (10 - 15), dolphins, baby sharks and turtles as well as the obligatory bird life. Pete managed to catch some nice pinkies (snapper) as well as a decent mulloway whilst on a night fish with Nic from Blue Yonder. Nicky was transported back to her previous life as she helped Julia with bath time, dinner time, and book reading.
One of the highlights was a plan to trek across to the western side of the island, which is dominated by 200 foot + cliffs all along the western facing shore. This involved a long dinghy trek down to the bottom of Tetradon Loop, then about a 6 kilometre walk, including traversing a large sand swept dune feature. Quite a hike, but well worth the effort when we finally made it to the western shore with awesome views south to Steep Point. Pretty cool being able to sit close (much to Nicky’s angst) to the edge of the cliffs and watch the surf pounding below. At close to the most western point in Australia, we easily spent an hour sitting watching the ocean and admiring the view before the long trek back to Bob, our dinghy.
With an eye on the weather and wanting to keep heading north - hopefully to where the sun is shining we sail east to the tip of Cape Peron, where we will spend a few days before taking advantage of some south easterly winds to sail to Carnarvon. Shark Bay is full of contrasts and as we approach Cape Peron it is all vibrant colours with vivid red cliffs and sand set against a gorgeous blue sky. After a long day, we anchor at Broadhurst Bight for the night, not the greatest anchorage but did the job, allowing us a quick dinghy ride and walk along the beach. The next morning we move a few miles up the coast and tuck in under the red cliffs right at the tip of Cape Peron. Whilst there are a lot of people camping and exploring the Cape, our anchorage and beach is well hidden and far enough off the tracks to ensure we have it to ourselves - something we are really appreciating about this cruising life.
More exploration with a walk from Cape Peron on a coastal route to Skipjack Point, where there are two observation platforms perched up on the headland. We learn why the sand is so red - created by iron oxide in the soil (same natural compound that forms when iron rusts) and spy some dugongs swimming along the coast below. After the walk home, we are able to relax and swim on the beach in front of our anchorage and again enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Through this whole period, our afternoon and evenings are busy with Nic and Julia on Blue Yonder with sunset drinks, curry nights or boys fishing expeditions whilst the girls down a G & T. A great part of cruising life and we are extremely fortunate (and very grateful) that Nic and Julia are so gracious in passing on local knowledge and lots of cruising tips.
After a couple of days sunshine, it time to head north and make the 38 or so nautical mile trip north to Carnarvon. Leaving early, we get bounced around with a strong tide current coming around the top of the Cape and a stiff easterly wind pushing chop in the other direction. We need to sail past the Peron Flats - an area of shallow sandbars that run for about 8 miles north of the Cape. We finally get into a bit of a groove when the wind settles and we end up with an enjoyable sail to Carnarvon.
In the distance we see ‘the dish’, the old space tracking station at Carnarvon and we know we are close to ticking off another milestone - sailing into Carnarvon - a place we have visited a lot by road - but more exciting is knowing that the next stage of our trip puts us into Ningaloo.