Onslow
It was the 2nd of August 2023 and we awoke to an overcast sky and a light onshore breeze with a plan for a downwind sail the 11 or so nautical miles across to the small coastal town of Onslow.
It was up anchor and make our way clear of the moorings and reef that surround Thevenard Island and then up with Shrek to capture the very light breeze, which was only about five knots.
As is the way, there was plenty of whale traffic and before long we had a couple of inquisitive humpbacks coming around for a closer look. Because we were only speeding (not the right choice of word, but never mind) along at about 3 knots there was plenty of time for the whales to have a closer look and see what we were all about. Funnily enough, we were on the phone to Jemma in Phillip Island so we hung up and then called back on a video call so that we could share the whale experience with her. They were literally 10 metres off our stern.
The whales were quite inquisitive and came around the boat several times, causing some mild panic for Nicky, particularly when one went down under the water and swam from the bow to our stern between the hulls. Even though we were crawling along, and the whales had come to us, it is always a bit of a heart-stopping moment when they get so close. Firstly, we’re worried we might hit and injure them and, secondly, we’re worried about potential damage to the boat.
The wind wasn’t doing much and we were only doing 2 knots, so we decided that enough was enough! Shrek had started to flap around a bit and wasn’t really providing us with any propulsion, so we put him back into his bag and motored the last few miles into the bay at Onslow.
There is a small commercial harbour in the creek at Onslow, but not much on offer for cruisers so we were happy to anchor in Beadon Bay, right out the front of town. We arrived with only one other yacht in the bay, Sally Malay, who we see most summers at Rottnest Island. Before long, Eden and ourselves were settled in on anchor and ready to stretch our legs in town.
The next few days were the usual mix of jobs including gas and laundry at the local caravan park and a restock at the supermarket. We also got to enjoy a nice dinner at the Onslow Beach Resort with the Eden crew. After living remotely at the Montes, a simple pub meal always feels that extra special. No fish for us though, thanks!
An interesting little town with lots of history and so plenty of walking and exploring in between jobs gave us a better appreciation and understanding. We spent a bit of time at the caravan park entertaining Hux and doing washing. Surprisingly, the park was full, predominantly of retirees of course. Chatting with a few, the common theme appeared to be that they had started coming here as Exmouth has got more and more crowded and expensive over the past few years.
Like many regional towns in WA, a memorial, to commemorate the sacrifice our service men and women endured as a result of their service both here and overseas, is a prominent landmark at the eastern end of town. Onslow Memorial Park’s main feature is a spectacular sculpture based on the insignia of the ADF’s Rising Sun cap badge. It is positioned so that each Anzac Day, the rays of the rising sun shine directly through the arch.
Part of our exploration whilst in town also included the picturesque Ian Donald Blair memorial walk which commemorates Ian Blair’s contribution to the Onslow community. As a policeman, Ian was posted to Onslow in 1959 and lived there after retirement until his death in 1998. The walkway has been cleverly constructed to wind its way along the foreshore, amongst native bush which, luckily for us, was in full bloom. Placed along the pathway is a series of information plaques detailing Onslow’s history, as well as information relating to its flora and fauna. Super interesting!
We had initially planned to return to the Montebello’s, but a couple of family priorities were nagging at us and we decided to return closer to Exmouth where we could slip back to Perth if need be. Eden were heading that way, so with a nice wind window approaching we prepared to return to Serrurier Island once more.
We departed Onslow with a plan to track south west close to the coast, past the Wheatstone gas plant to the mouth of the Ashburton River, before changing course and heading across to Serrurier Island.
The Wheatstone project is located just south of Onslow and the onshore processing facility is massive to say the least with its large storage tanks, plant and wharf dominating the landscape, especially at night. There has been quite a bit of environmental activism in the region of late with Greenpeace having recently sailed through the area targeting Woodside offshore installations amongst others. Our track was going to take us just outside the restricted area and it wasn’t long before we had an escort shadowing us to make sure we weren’t up to any funny business – like unfurling a big banner!! The ‘security’ vessel stayed just in our vicinity until we drew level with the wharf and then tucked in behind us until we were well clear. Clearly identified by our AIS signal there wasn’t any chance of us doing anything silly but they weren’t taking any chances!
The water in this area can best be described as choc milk in appearance for the initial 3 miles closest to the coast, which is best described as tidal mudflats, interspersed with mangroves and creeks. We sailed past the mouth of the Ashburton River, which is understood to be home to quite a few saltwater crocodiles these days, and then adjusted course for Serrurier, which took us back into the beautiful blue waters of the Exmouth Gulf.